Alumkadavu
Gliding along the calm and sere
ne
backwaters flanked by green leaves and palms, seeing a rural
Kerala preserved through the ages and completely hidden from
the road is an enchanting experience to any visitor, more so
while sailing a slow-moving, spacious Kettuvallam.
Alumkadavu, a quiet spot in the town of Karunagapally -
hardly 23 kms. north of Quilon (travel time: 30 min) has
become a hot point of Kettuvallam building, with more than a
hundred people involved.
These huge, long and tapering barges were traditionally used
to move tones of goods across kingdoms, with a portion
covered with bamboo and coir serving as a rest room and
kitchen for the crew. A familiar sight on the waters, these
vessels are built entirely without using nails.
Planks of jack wood are joined together with coir rope and
coated with a caustic black resin made from boiled cashew
kernels. With careful maintenance they last for generations.
Today, widely and appropriately called houseboats, they
carry furnished bedrooms, modern toilets, cozy living rooms,
a kitchen and even a balcony for angling. Some are powered
by a 40 HP engine. At Alumkadavu, you can even find a
floating conference hall, designed to seat 35, with a dais
and a sophisticated public address system.
Calicut
Up north in K
erala,
the meandering backwaters of Calicut (Kozhikode) lie waiting
to be discovered. With a bewitching beauty of its own.
North east of the city, Elathur offers an ideal jump-off
base into the Canoly Canal - a name taken after its British
builder and administrator. The canal links itself to the
Kallai River which unhurriedly threads through the city and
offers its shores to Calicut’s historic timber trade. The
produce of which is believed to have even adorned the courts
of King Solomon and Queen Sheba a few millennia ago.
Further south lies Kadalundi with its charming bird
sanctuary - haven to an amazing assortment of delightful
water birds. Another river of the region - Korapuzha - is
fast gaining popularity as the venue of the water sports
festival - the Korapuzha Jalotsavam - staged every August.
Kumarakom
At Kumarakom, you could sail the backwaters in rented
houseboats, which are poled by local oarsmen and are simply
furnished with a living room, a bedroom and bath, together
with a raised
central
platform creating a private sit-out for the passengers.
Sections of the curved roof of wood or plaited palm open out
to provide shade and allow uninterrupted views. Boat trains
- formed by joining two or more houseboats together - make
for a convenient mode of sightseeing when the company is
large. You could even take a canoe out into the quiet
lagoons and spend time angling. Make sure you sample
Karimeen and fresh Toddy - the favorite fresh-water food and
the local wine. This is an ideal place for backwater
cruises. A beautiful backwater spot accessible from
Kumarakom is Alleppey. On the shores of the enchanting
Vembanad lake, 14 kilometers from Kottayam (travel time: 20
min), lies Kumarakom in its small-town hush. Redolent of
restful ease.A boat ride into the countryside offers a close
look into an engaging rustic life. Skiff-fishermen launching
their cockleshell boats. Large flotillas of ducks waddling
down to the water from thatched houses on the banks. Women,
neck-deep in water, with their waist-length hair heaped in a
crown, searching for fish with their feet. A 14 acre bird
sanctuary is situated on the eastern banks of the Vembanad
Lake. The sanctuary adds to the natural beauty of Kumarakom.
Birds (waterfowl, water ducks, cuckoos, wild ducks etc.)
nest and spend happy summers here. Birds like Siberian
Storks migrate here every year. The sanctuary is open from
10 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Alleppey (Alappuzha) - Kuttanaad
The sweeping network of canals, honey-combing the town of
Alleppey (Alappuzha) has earned for the place its sobriquet
- "The Venice of the East." Small, low-slung country boats
are the taxis of this waterland. It is a heart-warmin
g
sight to see them carry a motley assemblage of cycles,
goats, fisherwomen with cane baskets, school children,
toddy-tappers with their knives and pots, duennas in white
with gold earrings, Syrian Christian priests and a
bare-chested boatman apiece.
Do not miss out on a ride into Kuttanad through shimmering,
green paddy fields and tail-wagging, head-bobbing groups of
ducks. The coir-workers too present an interesting sight as
they soak coconut fibre in pools, beat them out and weave
the tough brown strands into long ropes on spindles
stretched between endless coconut trees. Alleppey becomes
the cynosure of the eyes of the world in August - September,
every year, as it plays host to the celebrated Snake Boat
Races - a water regatta unique to Kerala.
Quilon (Kollam)
The charming old port city of Quilon (Kollam) on the banks
of the picturesque Ashtamudi Lake is now known
more
as the centre of cashew industry. Traces of a once
prosperous trade with China are still seen in the form of
Chinese fishing nets, huge Chinese water pots, blue and
white porcelain and sampan-like boats. Quilon is an
inviting gateway to Kerala's backwaters. For an interesting
backwater experience, take the regular ferry to Alleppey - a
rigorous ride lasting more than 8 hours. As the old ferry
putters from one village on the waterfront to another, you
are treated to a full range of lives and activities and some
of the most beautiful scenery imaginable. For the less
intrepid, shorter cruises can be made in the larger comforts
of the houseboats with idyllic villages such as Alumkadavu
as your launch base. The nearest airport, Trivandrum, is 71
kms. away. It takes fractionally over an hour to get to
Quilon by road or rail from Trivandrum.
Tourist Village at Akkulam
Akk
ulam
is one of the first picnic spots in the suburbs of
Trivandrum City. This place is only 10 kms away from the
Central Railway Station. The spot is developed on the banks
of Aakkulam Kayal (lake), which is an extension of the Veli
Kayal (lake). The calm and serene atmosphere and its unique
natural beauty is fascinating for the tourist. The village
consists of the Boat Club, Swimming Pool, Children's Park,
an Anthurium Project and a Snack Bar.
The Backwaters Treatment
Swaying coconut palms and meandering waterways create a
magical charm to the land. special magic of the backwaters:
a great and glistening web of rivers ,canals, lakes and
estuaries where time flows at a measured pace and yesterday
and tomorrow merge into an ever-lasting , jade-green, today.
The bluish waterways and the green land mélange to create a
mood that begger description. When you first encounter the
backwaters they look unreal: slow flowing watery highways
meandering between palm-hung banks. Clearly, the best way to
encounter these water lands is to hire a houseboat. Thes
e
long, broad-beamed, boats were once rice boats carrying
mounds of grain from the Kuttanad , rice bowl of Kerala, to
the great voracious cities. Then a complex of roads
feathered out across the State and the rice boats lost
business to the trucks.
This is when the bright entrepreneurs of Kerala said:
"Anything Kashmir can do, we can do better!" They bought
rice boats from the out-of-work owners, made stately rooms,
bathrooms, open-sided lounges, and kitchens, on board;
employed the original owners as captains and crew on their
own boats; brought in a chef and a guide, and were in
business
.
You can, for instance, choose either to be part of the scene
or, detachedly, away from it. Your houseboat, except when it
ties up alongside in the firefly haunted night, is never so
far away from the banks that you cannot share, vicariously,
in the lives of the people of the backwaters. Yet, you are
never really close enough to become intimately involved in
their trials and tribulations. You can, with complete
freedom, pick and choose your passing involvement as if you
were plugged into a Virtual Reality experience.
For the passengers, the backwaters' houseboat experience is
a step further on the rejuvenating trail. The environment of
Kerala, the atmosphere of this green State, is therapeutic
in itself. Just being in Kerala, as we've said, is a
health-enhancing experience. But when you experience it in
the peaceful drifting of a houseboat through the backwaters,
you're adding a deep dimension of serenity to your therapy.
Squadrons of brown and white ducks paddle past, arrowing for
little thatched-and-tiled settlements on the palm-shaded
embankments. Women hang out bright pennants of washing while
their husbands, with bare, bronzed, bodies, fish with rod
and line, or flared filigrees of nets, or with bows and
harpoon arrows, or even with spiked bamboo probes,
extracting skulking crabs from water-lapped eaves of the
levees.